I think the title covers this one. Honda's are famous for this so I made this little video to help you should you be in this situation. Wear your safety glasses when you do this or whenever you hit things, getting crap in your eye sucks, trust me. Impact drivers can be found at your local tool supplier. If you don't have a hammer I don't know what to tell you. This doesn't seem to require a long explanation so I'm going to stop typing now. Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com ericthecarguy.comStay dirty ETCG Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
There is a lot more here than meets the eye, the original video cut was about 16 min long. As you can see we did have some fun. I may post some of the out takes at some time in the future. I thought you might want to cover the process here and that's what I went for. Thanks to www.youtube.com for the procedure for this and hopefully for letting me post this as a video response to his video. If I think of anything else I think you need to know with this I'll post it later, for now I have to run. Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com ericthecarguy.comStay Dirty ETCG Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
@brianlester I love getting comments like this where someone actually benefits from what I've done, thanks for that.
ReplyDelete@colliecandle I have had issues with stuck fasteners in the past for sure, I usually break out the torch however and that's usually the end of it. There are times however when the stuck fastener is inside a rubber bushing and that creates a special problem since heat will kill the bushing, I usually end up buying new parts in that situation.
ReplyDeleteThank you ERIC THE CAR GUY!!! I am indebted to you!!! Took me 20 minutes of my own time! Saved me time and money!
ReplyDeleteFYI this was on a 1998 Pontiac Firefly or equivalent Geo Metro/Suzuki Swift!
I did tighten two bolts (from my tool box) into the other two holes to "loosen up" the rotor itself and it was butter after that.
replacing rotors on a Ford transit van I once owned was the WORST job imaginable.
ReplyDeleteI had to release the calipers [2xbolts on each caliper] I ruined several sockets and even using a long extension pipe didn't work.........I ended up buying some specialist
bolts removing tool and even THAT [after heating!!] ONLY JUST did the trick and ruined it! Have you had similar joy with this type of job? and if so, how did YOU manage??? Great vids, and once again, thanks for sharing
@dabrownhornet99 You don't need them, you can leave them out when you reinstall.
ReplyDelete@malakalraheem Yea, I wished you could have watched the video first, might have saved you some drilling time. Thanks for the comment.
ReplyDelete@kidcool1977 Try the 2 hammers first and you might not have to.
ReplyDeletewhat were these engineers thinking, WTF!!!!!!!! I'm doing to invest in a airhammer
ReplyDeletewhat were these engineers thinking, WTF!!!!!!!!
ReplyDelete@elbelcho Thank you, I work pretty hard at delivering exactly what you describe. Once again thanks.
ReplyDeleteGreat video dude. Thanks for presenting this useful information in an interesting and entertaining way.
ReplyDelete@EricTheCarGuy You will need to unstake the shoulder first of course.
ReplyDelete@turbofreak521 That would be the axle nut, the best way to remove it without an impact is to break it loose while the car is still on the ground. You can do this by removing the center cap or hub cap and using a breaker bar to remove it.
ReplyDeletewhat the big nut in the middle called and any tips for taking that off im trying to take my tranny out
ReplyDelete@063209dr On most occasions all you need do is employ the hammer method and the screws come out however in this instance that didn't happen so I showed some alternative methods should it not work out as planned.
ReplyDeleteSorry, but I'm just confused. He says this is an alternative way to remove said screws without an impact driver or power tool. And then proceeds to use both an impact driver and power tool!!!
ReplyDelete@atoxx1 Thank man, you probably saved me alot of trouble i dont need. Ill try it your way. Great vids keep em comin, and stay dirty!!!!!!!1
ReplyDelete@atoxx1 You would actually make things more difficult if you sprayed the screws with penetrant as it would make the bit slip inside the screw. I don't recommend heat because the bearing assembly has a rubber seal that you could melt if you overheat it, in addition you would also temper the metal of the rotor and that is something to be avoided in my opinion. Try this method, it's very simple and very effective in my experience.
ReplyDelete@EricTheCarGuy can you spray any thing on the screws to make this any easier, or heat them up?!!!!!1
ReplyDelete@FordFanatic59 Glad I was able to help even thought it might have been a little late. Thanks for your comment.
ReplyDeleteI ran into a problem exactly like this replacing front brake pads and rotors on my friend's 2007 Mazda 6. It had the phillips screws. One side broke loose fine but the other side was a different story. I broke 6 phillips bits inside the head of the screw. I ended up drilling the one side out which wasted around 7-8 drill bits. I wish I had seen your video earlier! Thanks! you do a great job with your videos!
ReplyDelete@zztopgearhead1 What kind of car are we talking about again? I always check the fuses and relays first when I have a cooling fan problem. I also run direct power to the fans to see if they CAN work, if they do and the fuses and relays are good I look to the controls like the fan switch if it has one as well as the wiring to it. Sometimes fans have their own control unit or are controlled by the computer, in that case look to the manufacturer troubleshooting for cooling fan operation.
ReplyDelete@Num1Pacesetter Thanks for the comment and good luck, remember not to point the outlet at your face. :)
ReplyDelete@bigdan395 Good eye, that IS what it was.
ReplyDeletehumm that jug he had tape on sure looked like CLR to me
ReplyDelete@chucka59 I saw a good one on RealFixesReal fast the other day called the Typhoon, real high volume, you might want to check his video out, I think it was on cleaning AC components.
ReplyDeleteair gun works for me....lol
ReplyDelete@Standingwithfeast Ahh well that does make a difference. Then, yes, in a situation were there was a damaged compressor I would defiantly recommend flushing out the system but to perform it as a maintenance procedure for me it seems like more trouble than it is worth. I think in that instance you might run the risk of knocking something loose and possibly cause a restriction.
ReplyDelete@EricTheCarGuy I apologize for the misunderstanding. I thought a tool as I mentioned with a sprayer nozzel and a shop air pressurized canister is good for your method of cleaning the heater core. The AC flush I did with the ac cleaning chemical the ac had no refrigerant in it. The flush is to unclog the evaporator full of particals. Most guys in the shop don't do it, but I want to give the customer what they paid for and avoid come backs. Take care. If you think it works let me know. thanks.
ReplyDelete@EricTheCarGuy Sorry, I may cause some misunderstanding here. I am also a certified Tech and I only flush the AC system if I have a car that have a catastrophic AC problem like chew up compressor, clogged orifice,etc. You know the canister pressurized with air to blow cleaner for ac system after recovery. I thought that tool with the spray nozzle and control valve would do the same as your method but easier. I agree with recovering R134a and R12 is a must and we do that it is the law. thanks.
ReplyDelete@Standingwithfeast I don't recommend doing anything to the AC system, if you release the refrigerant into the air it is bad for the environment, besides the AC should function normally for years without service, that is how it is designed. In addition to that in some states you need to be a licensed HVAC technician to work on the system. The chemical I used for the coolant was CLR.
ReplyDelete@EricTheCarGuy This video made me lol. I think that cleaning the heater core is a whole lot easier than to replace it and save the customer money if it fixes the problem. I have never flush one yet, but I do flush the AC system with the flush tool. I wonder if I use the AC flush tool to fill it with AC flush chemical and blow out the heater core and then flush it with water. What do you think? I am curious of what chemical you used, was it radiator flush chemicals? Laughter is good take care.
ReplyDelete@jacobdorp Yea when I get the chance, those guys are great.
ReplyDelete@EricTheCarGuy hey do you ever listen to car talk on NPR
ReplyDelete@PAYATTENTIONDAMMITT Well I try not to take myself too seriously, I am just a silly human after all. Thanks for the comment.
ReplyDeleteman thanks for the tips my 96 aurora is overheating,hey great sense of humor,that was funny,thanks again.
ReplyDelete@grawey77 Indeed I do.
ReplyDeleteYou probably know who Scotty Kilmer is here on youtube.
ReplyDelete@bucktheusa The ETC does not turn the fans on. There is a separate sensor in the bottom of the radiator that controls cooling fan operation, you might want to look there as it sounds like your problem is with the cooling fan operation. Try unplugging it to see if the fans come on. I can't remember if that would activate the fans or if you needed to jump between the terminals. Sorry about the miltipost, YT is giving me fits today.
ReplyDelete@bucktheusa It really shouldn't matter if coolant is flowing through the heater core for an overheat. I'm wondering if your defrost is on when you put the heat on, if it is and your cooling fan's aren't working this would make more sense (since defrost will activate the AC). Perhaps watch the video I just posted on diagnosing an overheat.
ReplyDelete@bucktheusa It really shouldn't matter if coolant is flowing through the heater core for an overheat. I'm wondering if your defrost is on when you put the heat on, if it is and your cooling fan's aren't working this would make more sense (since defrost will activate the AC). Perhaps watch the video I just posted on diagnosing an overheat.
ReplyDeleteHeh, you missed the part where Dave said use a hose clamp on the air hose.
ReplyDeleteThink I might need a face shield now...
01 Civic LX overheats ONLY and IMMEDIATELY after turning on the heat.
My master mechanic is stumped. Everything has been replaced except for heater core and heater control valve.
Any thoughts? Thinking the HCV diverts the entire flow to the HC where it backs up and stops circulation. Hours of searching forums and no answers although common on these models. Thanks for 2 cents
@manzou3 Well not exactly but what you describe is an overheat condition. This could be caused by a leak that let the coolant get low, a bad thermostat, or an engine performance problem. First thing I would look for is a leak however.
ReplyDeletehallo i have a question.i have a bmw 523i 1998.yesterday i was driving on the highway .suddenly i saw on the dashboard that the temperature of the car is becoming very high.so i stoped the car and i looked to the resevoir .the water was cooking.and there was a lot of pressure on the cool system.do u know maybe whats the problem?
ReplyDelete@zztopgearhead1 The procedure is pretty much the same as in this video for just about everything. The most important thing is to figure out which direction the flow is going so you can flush it in the opposite direction. Don't forget to check for air in the system first, it could be that simple.
ReplyDelete