As you may have guess this is the second part of this subject. Click on the link at the bottom of this to see part 1. If I missed anything or if you need more information just leave a comment or visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com. www.ericthecarguy.com Part 1 www.youtube.com Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
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Monday, September 27, 2010
How To Change Your Oil Part 2
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@ramrice Your welcome.
ReplyDeleteThank you, Eric.
ReplyDelete@ramrice To be honest I would leave it alone, I don't think that's enough to cause an issue.
ReplyDeleteEric, thanks. I overfilled my oil by about 1/4 to 1/3 quart, a fraction of an inch above the top line. Should I get some oil out to be within in the range?
ReplyDelete@elantra11 I ran kerosene through an engine once and it actually cleaned it so well that all the sediment from it ended up clogging the oil pickup. To be honest I would stay away from it and just focus on changing the oil more frequently to help clean out the old gunk.
ReplyDeleteNice video ! Just a question about slight sludge or just dirty oil - what is your opinion about cleaning the engine with kerosene/oil mix and also using diesel oil (like Rotella-T) for 500-800 miles ?
ReplyDelete@aliwathi Hello Iraq, glad you like the videos. To answer your question I'm 39.
ReplyDeletethanxxx eric for those great videos ,i am a female from iraq ,n i speak english as a second language but i have undersootd evry thing .may i ask u how old are u?
ReplyDelete@happy543210 That's a great idea, in fact I hope to cover trans fluid changes as well as automatic transmission videos in the future. In truth most of the fluid stays in the torque converter when you drain the pan so you are correct that if you just drain the fluid you won't get it all. If you change the fluid about every 30-60K you should be OK however even if you only get what is in the pan. It's those cars and trucks that NEVER get any kind of fluid changes that can be trouble.
ReplyDeleteHello Eric, thanks so much for your videos! Would you consider doing a video on automatic transmission fluid changes. I understand that simply draining the A/T pan is not going to be enough since only 1/3 of the oil resides in the pan--while another 1/3 is in the torque converter and the final 1/3 is in the cooler. Thanks again.
ReplyDelete@mixwell1983 Stay dirty but work clean.
ReplyDeleteI generally try to clean around where the filter is because my starter on my 01 Ranger is right below it and I think the shield has came off or something from prior work but I wouldn't want and oil linking connections that should be connected.
ReplyDelete@KenBobBad I did think of filling the filter after I had shot it, very good suggestion, I may do an updated version in the future. Thanks for the suggestions.
ReplyDeleteYou've done a great job explaining how this is done. I just thought I would comment on a few things i would do differently, First I wouldn't use dirty oil to lube the gasket on the filter, personal preference. Second I would fill the filter with oil. Also I think federal law states that the oil filter must be "hot" drained for a least 12 hours before it is not considered a hazardous waste anymore, then you can throw it away in the trash.
ReplyDeletehaha no I definitely wouldnt challenge him. that was just my opinion, and more or less i wanted to know urs.he has 10000 times more experience than I, and I definitely respect that. It just didn't seem quite right to me. Thanks very much for all of your quick and thorough answers- it is greatly appreciated!
ReplyDeleteI'd have to say I'm with you on this one. Word of caution, people that work on cars, especially the ones that have done it for some time can get rather opinionated and set in their ways, they usually have good reason for this but it's not good policy to challenge them on their opinions, it can be a waste of time.
ReplyDeleteMy friends dad is a mechanic and this is what he does. Even though it gets extremely cold somedays (southcentral PA) he still runs 10w-30 on their higher mileage vehicles. Now in the summer or warmer months, this is probably a good idea bc of the increased bearing clearances, etc. BUT, in cold weather, this has to be bad. all of their cars specify 5w-30 or 5w-20, but he still runs the 10w30 even in frigid weather. seems like a bad idea to me...but im no mechanic haha
ReplyDeleteThat is true to some extent, as an engine wears it creates larger spaces between the moving parts, this space lowers oil pressure overall because the thinner oil will run out of those spaces quicker. If you use a thicker oil it will hang in the spaces longer and fill them better but beware, thicker oil will take longer to move in cold weather thus starving parts of the engine (particularly the top end) and causing even more wear.
ReplyDeleteOk..so i'm confused, when i worked for a certain shop they recommended to use a higher viscocity oil as the engine had more miles..how true is this Eric?..Or should i stick to what ever the oil cap says throughout the engine's life, no matter the miles..Help please, thanks.
ReplyDeleteLmao @ the fire ants comment.
ReplyDeleteThere's a third place to look for the right oil type.
ReplyDeleteIf the cap says "OIL" (or "710" ;)) only, and you've (or previous owner) lost the manual, check the oil stick.
Some oil sticks have the oil type stamped onto it.
Keep'em useful vids coming. :)
I'm sure they have their place but I haven't seen anything that can rebuild an engine that needs to be rebuilt that exists in a bottle yet.
ReplyDeletewhat do u think of oil additives like the lucas oil mix stuff?
ReplyDeleteVery true.
ReplyDeleteToo much oil in engine can leed to the cranckshapt+rods to hit the oil from the oil pan, these results to foaming of the oil - bad thing. Also depending on the tipe of engine (wet sump, with out a scraper) excess oil causes loss of power, energy from the cranckshaft is used to stir the oil.
ReplyDelete